Saturday, March 21, 2009

Roaming around Rome


It was one of those ideas you have that seems a long time down the road. My then 13 year old daughter is taking latin in school, which includes the study of Ancient Rome. So, last year I started planning a trip to Rome for Spring Break of her eighth grade year. We got mileage tickets (double connections both ways...ick), we rented an apartment, and we sought recommendations from her Latin teacher about what she should see. As the trip got closer it seemed, as always, that it was a bad time to go. Philip insisted that we go as planned, displaying his greater wisdom, as usual.

We've just returned from that trip. As with every trip there is good and there is room for improvement.

First of all, even with a nine month lead time, the only mileage seats I was able to get required a connection in Chicago and London both ways (not to mention an overnight in London on the way over). We calculated our time in transit for our return journey and it was over 19 hours. That stinks.

Also, I thought that renting an apartment would be fun, affordable and convenient. As it turns out, the particular apartment we rented appears to be the part time residence of an older single gentleman with questionable housekeeping skills. The aroma was so distinct that the first time I opened the suitcase after leaving the apartment, my stomach curdled with the memory that wafted up to my nose. It was disconcerting to find his personal effects throughout the apartment. I'm not just talking about knick knacks and books. I mean that his clothing was hanging in the wardrobe and his underwear was in the drawers. I've stayed in private accommodations before. I've never encountered items left in the accommodation that were not intended for guest use. We were left with nowhere to put our own things and never really felt like we could settle in.

Mostly though, the trip was great. My daughter is a seasoned traveler and very easy going and a delight to travel with. Even though the air journey was long, it was smooth. For our overnight in London on the way over we bunked in at the Yotel. Yotel is everything you would expect from a luxury hotel in a small space. It was was fantastic. We were able to stretch out and get some comfortable sleep and be at least somewhat sane when we arrived in Rome the next day. They had high speed internet, a comfortable bed and a private bathroom.


Incorporating the suggestions we'd gotten from the Latin teacher, we chose three educational walks from Context Rome. I've been on several Context walks and have sent many clients on them as well. As usual, they were stellar. The intimate size of the groups, maximum six participants, make for a great experience. My daughter's favorite was Roma Antica which covers the Colosseum, the Forum and Palatine Hill.

Our apartment was near the Termini Station. I like the location. Although some people find the neighborhood creepy, I think it is the perfect home base for visiting Rome. Since Rome's metro system isn't as complete as in any other European Capitals, being at the crossroads of the two lines is convenient for getting around.

Speaking of Rome's metro system, they are in the midst of constructing a third line. Of course, every time they come across something of archeological significance they have to halt progress and assure that everything is properly excavated and catalogued.

Another highlight of the trip was Italian ice cream, Gelato. We decided that we would stop at every Gelato stand we came across. After the first day it became evident that we would not be able to hold to that standard. There were Gelato places everywhere!

This was the first time I've gone to Europe and only done one destination. Usually I try to experience as many destinations as reasonably possible in my available time. I think I've decided that I prefer the single destination. Because we had plenty of time, we were able to do things like:
practice cartwheels, sleep till afternoon one day. stop whenever we wanted for gelato, shop for socks, or stop for an impromptu haircut.

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